Belgrade to Sarajevo by bus and why breaking the journey in Tuzla makes sense

A practical overland itinerary including tips on things to do and where to stay in each city

Sarajevo has to be my favourite Balkan capital, with Belgrade not far behind and I’m sure I’m not alone in wanting to visit both on the same trip. There’s a problem though. Getting between the two cities on public transport looks more like an endurance test than a fun thing to do on holiday.

We found breaking the journey in the Bosnian city of Tuzla, turned what could have been a long, awkward bus trip, into something far more manageable. And by happy coincidence, Tuzla turned out to be so much more than just a stopover: We found things to see and do and had a genuinely great time there.

I’ve described the journey we took from Belgrade to Sarajevo via Tuzla and included visitor information for each of these cities in the Balkans.

Itinerary map

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Visit Belgrade, capital of Serbia

Belgrade is one of the more affordable European capital cities, offering a mix of history, culture, and excellent food, alongside a famously lively nightlife. I would absolutely recommend it. If you have time, I’d also recommend a side trip to Novi Sad, Serbia’s second city, which incidentally also has a fortress with fabulous river views from the top.

Things to do in Belgrade

Here’s some highlights, and all on the itinerary map I made for you. There’s a full destination guide coming soon.

• St Sava Cathedral: Visit one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world
• Kalemegdan Fortress: Take in the views over the rivers Danube and Sava from this impressive fortress.
• Ružica Church: Step inside this church tucked away inside the fortress with chandeliers made from weapons!
• Skadarlija: Spend time in Belgrade’s bohemian quarter
• Belgrade’s waterfront: Enjoy a river cruise by day or stay later for the nightlife on board the floating river clubs.
• Knez Mihailova Street: Wander dowm this pedestrianised shopping street with street performers and cafés
• Nikola Tesla Museum: Learn about the life and work of the pioneer of the AC current.
• Street art: Belgrade has plenty of great street art mostly hidden away from the main tourist routes

Where to stay in Belgrade

Time is precious, so for me, picking a hotel right in the heart of the action will always be a priority. We stayed at the Belgrade Garni Inn Hotel,, just off Republic Square and a few steps from the Skadarlija district, where many of Belgrade’s traditional restaurants are located. It was a good choice, and somewhere I’d happily stay again.

If you’re looking elsewhere, Stari Grad, Dorćol, and Vračar are all solid alternatives, offering a similar balance of walkability, cafés, and easy access to the main sights. Areas closer to the river can be enjoyable too, bu, especially if the floating river clubs and nightlife are your priority.

Belgrade to Tuzla by bus

The bus trip from Belgrade to Tuzla takes just over 4 hours, here’s some useful tips:

• Buying Tickets: Tickets can be purchased online at TransTurist Tuzla. There are currently two direct services a day. We caught the earlier 9am service. Expect to pay around 48KM (around €24) one way.
• Catching the Bus: The bus leaves from Belgrade’s central bus station. It’s a busy, chaotic place, so I’d give yourself time. You’ll need a platform ticket as well as a bus ticket. This was rigorously enforced and the purchase of it was not made easy. So do have cash ready (currently 300 RSD) and be prepared to hunt for an obscure kiosk and to ask for the right thing in Serbian / via google translate. Once you’ve been allowed to board the bus, things improve quickly. The coach was modern and comfortable, and drama free (except for the broken toilet!)
• Border Crossing: You’ll be asked to get off the bus once on the Serbian side and again on the Bosnian side to show your passport. We had Kosovan passport stamps and there were no issues with this on leaving Serbia.
• Bus Journey: The bus journey is 4 hours and 20 minutes and ours left and arrived on time. The bus runs through flat plains and small rural settlements and there’s plenty to see from the window, Once over the border, we passed Bijeljina. We could see a gold topped monastery which looked worth a visit if you have time. After that fhe terrain changed quickly and became much hillier, until we reached Tuzla, beyond the hills and into the valley.
• Wnere to get off: The bus arrives in Tuzla main station which is about 10-15 minutes walk beyond the centre, We chose to exit at a bus stop just before the centre at the Tuzla brewery for a very welcome lunch stop and a beer! I’d highly recommend it,

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Visit Tuzla, “The City of Salt”

Tuzla rarely appears on first-time Balkan itineraries, which is part of its appeal. Perhaps surprising, given that it has its own airport with Wizz Air services from several European cities. It tends to be routes that aren’t served directly by Sarajevo. The city is best known for its salt heritage and its unusual city-centre saltwater lakes, the Pannonian Lakes, with beaches, promenades, and sunbeds to by the water. Popular for both recreation and therapy, it makes particular sense in a country with barely 20 km of coastline.

Beyond the lakes, Tuzla is one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in Europe, with evidence of salt production dating back to Neolithic times. That long history has left clear signs of influence, still visible in the city today.

Things to do in Tuzla

Here’s some highlights, and all on the itinerary map I made for you. There’s a full destination guide coming soon.

• Pannonian Lakes: The city centre lakeside beaches, with cascading waterfalls and amusement park
• Freedom Square: A huge square flanked by baroque buildings and cafes with a central fountain
• Meša Selimović and Ismet Mujezinović: Bronze statues of renowned painter and writer and Tuzla’s meeting point.
• Old Town: Wander the old town for bars, restaurants, shops, street art and attractive waterfront
• Turalibegova Džamija (Mosque): The central most well known mosque, but there are others, along with churches, both catholic and orthodox. Tuzla is known for tolerance and acceptance.
• Kapija Massacre Memorial (Tuzla Massacre Memorial): A memorial to people killed in the wars.
• Gradac Park: One of several central parks in this very green city
• Food and drink: A number of inviting traditional options. We enjoyed Tuzla brewery.

There’s also several museums, including a salt museum, which we didn’t visit, but maybe you might?

Where to stay in Tuzla

We stayed at the So&Sol Boutique Hotel in the centre of Tuzla, around a ten-minute walk from the Pannonica Salt Lakes, which are unique in the region. The welcome was exceptionally warm, and it made a very comfortable base for a short stay. It’s somewhere I’d happily recommend.

Tuzla to Sarajevo by bus

The bus trip from Belgrade to Tuzla takes just over 3 hours, here’s the trip details.

• Buying Tickets: Tickets can be purchased online at Centrotrans Eurolines, there are buses every 1-2 hours, so a much more regular service than the first leg from Belgrade.
• Catching the Bus: We caught the bus frpm Tuzla main station. There was no repeat of the chaos of Belgrade and no demands to buy extra platform tickets either.
• Bus Journey including Border Crossing: The bus journey takes just over 3 hours in a comfortable air conditioned modern coach. The mountainous terrain is spectacular and a little sick enducing, to give you fair warning. especially the final dramatic descent as the bus descends into Sarajevo.
• Wnere to get off: The bus arrives in Sarajevo central bus station, not the one on the eastern outskirts of the city and it’s walkable to the old city and there’s trolley buses close by too. Individual tickets can be bought from the driver or in kiosks at the stop (remember to validate them on the bus). There are restaurants close to the bus station. Or alternatively go straight to the centre and head for Klopa, near the huge Serbian Orthodox Church of the Nativity and enjoy your first Sarajevo feast.

Visit Sarajevo

Where do I start with Sarajevo? Should you visit? It’s a yes from me!. But here’s the rub: everyone else has discovered how wonderful it is too. Anyone still calling Sarajevo “underrated” or a “hidden gem” either hasn’t visited recently or wasn’t paying attention. It’s busy, and not just in peak summer season. While Sarajevo still offers good value compared to many northern European capitals, it’s no longer the budget break it once was. Bosnia and Herzegovina is very much having its moment – and Sarajevo is right at the centre of it.

Things to do in Sarajevo

Brace yourself – it’s a long list, and this is the edited version. There’s an enormous amount to see and do here. We spent four nights, which we thought would be plenty, but it really wasn’t. I’ve marked these highlights on the map for this itinerary.

• Latin Bridge: It’s old and photgenic and you can see the spot where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated – one of the events that precipitated the First World War.
• Sarajevo City Hall (Vijećnica), Hard to miss. Rebuilt after the war and just as impressive inside as out.
• Baščaršija: Explore the old town, with its winding lanes, cafes and shops selling everything from copperware and crafts to war relics
• Sebilj Fountain: According to legend, you’ll return to Sarajevo one day if you take a drink from it.
• Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque: Another city landmark and you can take a look inside too.
• Ferhadija Street: Walks along the main shopping street and visit the Cathedral, and the Eternal Flame memorial
• Museums: These include the Tunnel of Hope Museum or the Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide
• Yellow Fort: Take a walk up to the fort for the view, especially at sunset You’ll also pass Kovači Cemetery, where many victims of the 1990s war are buried
• Cable Car: Take the ride up Mount Trebević and explore the abandoned 1984 Olympic village and bobsleigh track
• Vrelo Bosne: Take the trolleybus to Escape the city heat. Stroll the tree-lined paths or take a horse drawn cart.
• Eat well — the food is excellent and ttry Bosnian coffee, served strong and often in beautifully engraved pots

A day trip from Sarajevo

Unfortunately on this trip we didn’t have time to explore beyond Sarajevo. So we opted for this group tour to see as much as we could in the time. It included less accessible places on public transport as well as an all too brief stop in Mostar. We visited Konjic, Počitelj, Blagaj Tekke, and the Kravice Waterfalls. Although I missed out on the much-talked-about Sarajevo–Mostar train journey, the trade-off was seeing far more of the region in one day. The views from the van were excellent, and having a clean windscreen didn’t hurt either. For me, it offered a better balance of sights, context, and value than a DIY daytrip to Mostar on the train. But we will be back I’m sure.

Where to stay in Sarajevo

We stayed here, right in the heart of Sarajevo’s old town. With cobbled streets all around, views over the historic centre, and easy access to the main sights. It turned out to be an excellent choice and a very easy base for exploring the city on foot.

If you’re looking at other options, areas around Baščaršija, the edge of the old town, and parts of the central district work well too, offering a similar mix of atmosphere and walkability. Staying central makes a big difference in Sarajevo, especially if you want to avoid relying on transport.

Where to go next

Onwards from Sarajevo

If you don’t have time to explore Mostar and some of the other Bosnian highlights, I strongly recommend this tour, which will pack in as much as is humanly possible in one day. You won’t regret it.

For my return, a chance to see Mostar properly, (not just a flying visit) and I’d also recommend Blagaj Tekke, Pocitelj, Kravica waterfalls and Konjic which we covered all too briefly on our day tour.

For new things to do for our next visit, I’m keen on the route between Mostar and Dubrovnik along the old Austro-Hungarian railway including Zavala Monastery and iVjetrencia caves along with the cities of Jajce (including Pilva lakes) and Travnik. I think I’d also like a day at the Bosnian beach (seaside this time) at Naum as the Bosnian coast is so tiny and this fascinates me.

After Bosnia, the next most obvious route is along the Adriatic and into Croatia and Montenegro.

I hope you’ve found this itinerary useful. If you’re curious about other itinerary guides in the wider Balkan area, I have more point to point trips. If you love this one you may enjoy my classic mainland Greece itinerary by bus or itinerary from Tirana to Skopje via Kosovo. And if you want to make travel in the Balkans easier, I’ve documented the contents of my one small bag which has everything I need for a multi-iseason trip packed into a 24L daypack.

I’d love to hear about your experiences in Bosnia or help if you have any questions about planning a trip. And if you enjoy practical, real-world travel tips across Europe, feel free to join my monthly newsletter.

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