One Small Bag

As I close in on visiting every country in Europe, I’m taking a brief interlude in my Balkan and Baltic adventures to visit some micro nations, so that’s why we have a post on Andorra! For this trip, I also chose to get to Andorra from UK on long distance buses, mainly Flixbus, rather than flying. If you want to know more about this journey, I would love you to subscribe to my blog and you will receive details of this adventure as soon as it’s published.

If you would like to know what else is coming up, check here for the trips I will be posting about. So now onto Andorra La Vella, which I knew very little about, so that in itself was a reason to visit.

Some Key Facts about Andorra and the Capital, Andorra La Vella

Andorra is a landlocked principality nestled high n the Pyrenees, between France and Spain. While It’s the 17th smallest country in the world at 468km2, It’s the largest micro-nation in Europe. Its capital, Andorra La Vella, is the highest capital in Europe. There are no airports or train stations in Andorra. It is only accessible by road from France or Spain.

The language of Andorra is Catalan, although you will hear French and Spanish spoken and many people speak English too. The currency is Euro, even though the principality is not in the EU.

Andorra La Vella has a long history. It’s been the capital of the principality since 1278 when Andorra’s co-princes, one from Spain and one from France reached an agreement and Andorra was formed.. Today those ‘princes’ still exist in the bishop of Urgell ( current incumbent, Joan-Enric Vives i Sicilia) and the Head of State for France, (currently Emmanuel Macron), although their roles are largely ceremonial.

Andorra’s mountainous and dramatic landscape means skiing is one of the main draws, This, along with a low tax regime, attracts duty free shoppers. Final fact about Andorra for you. There are around 25 museums in Andorra, this means it has the most museums per head of anywhere in the world except for a tiny island off New Zealand called Niue

Map of Andorra La Vella

I have created a map to reference the places referred to in this blog.

Things to see and do in Andorra de Vella

La Noblesse du Temps by Salvador Dali

Salvador Dali made the piece in 1984 and it was installed in this prominent position in the city square next to the river in 2010.

Puento de Paris

I guess this is the place, for the picture to say you have been to Andorra. The Puento de Paris, also known as Ponte de Paris, spans the fast flowing Gran Valira river going through the centre of the city. Here’s a video, turn the volume up, to hear the ‘sound of Andorra’. It’s a noisy place as there is so much fast running water in rivers and waterfalls!

Wander around the Old Town

One of the things I most enjoyed in Andorra was wandering the streets in the older part of town where you can find traditional restaurants, shops and buildings. I particularly liked the mural you can see on the side of the house below. The picture is meant to line up with the mountaineous background, but it looks like I was standing in the wrong place when I took this picture!

The most prominent landmarks in the old town are the old parliament building Casa de la Vall and the Esglesia de Sant Esteve.

Casa de la Vall

Casa de la Vall was the seat of Andorra’s parliament up until 2011. It is now preserved as a museum and is one of the most visited spots in Andorra La Vella. It costs 5EUR to visit. It is not open every day, so if you are only on a short visit to Andorra, you may want to make sure you visit on a day when it is open. Full details are on the official website.

Esglesia de Sant Esteve

This church is in Príncep Benlloch square, in the centre of the old town and you will not miss it. The church is particularly striking with the stunning backdrop of the Pyrenees behind it. While it dates back to the 12th century and has some lovely stained glass windows, much of it has been modernised in the 20th century. Some of the original frescoes are displayed in Barcelona’s Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya.

The 7 Poets

Just in front of Andorra la Vella’s new council building, in the Lidia Armengol Square, you can see the 7 poets, the work of Jaume Plensa inaugurated on January 21, 2014.. You can also view them from above from the Plaça del Poble which is a viewpoint near the old town.

The 7 poets represent the seven parishes of Andorra. At night they are lit up in different colours.

Duty Free Shopping

Andorra’s tax free status makes it one of the cheapest places to shop in Europe for luxury goods. There are no shortage of brand stores selling designer clothing, watches, jewellery, electronics. perfume, cosmetics, alcohol and cigarettes and so on. There are a lot of specialist shops too. While Andorra La Vella is stunning, set amid the mountains, it does still feel a little like a city which is one big shopping street!

A trip into the supermarket, reveals prices there are not particularly cheap for every day goods for people living in Andorra. In fact, they can actually be more expensive, due to the country’s mountainous geography. Its inaccessibility and the unsuitability of much of the land for arable food production, This does mean every day goods, including food are often imported.

Public Parks

Parc Central

Parc Central or Central Park of Andorra la Vella is a popular green space in the middle of the city. The Parc Central also runs alongside La Valira River. It has well-maintained walking paths, lots of trees, sculptures, a children’s playground, a rock garden, public toilets and also a cafe.

Placa Casadet

Close to Parc Central, I found a delightful little little courtyard surrounded by flats and offices, with sculptures.

Visiting Neighbouring Escaldes-Engordany

Heading East out of Andorra La Vella you come to Escaldes-Engordany town which is more a continuation of Andorra La Vella than a separate town. Similar to the area around Ponte de Paris, one of the first things you may hear is the sound of very loud rushing water..

Pont d’Engordany

While you appear to be in quite a built up area, there are bridges and rushing water through the town and you cannot escape the dramatic backdrop of the Pyrenees .

Carmen Thysson Museum

Opposite the bridge, is the Carmen Thysson Andorra Museym. This displays art works from the world renowned  Carmen Thyssen-Bornemisza Collection. Mainly featuring paintings from the 19th and 20th centuries, the Carmen Thysson Museum has quickly become one of the visited museums in Andorra since its inauguration in 2017.

The museum’s exhibitions are temporary and reviewed every year. The collection on display is small, less than 100 pieces, but the display changes annually, the idea being tourists will see different displays each visit. If you are planning on visiting, do make sure it is open when you are there and not closed for a changeover..

The display I saw when I visited was called Sons. In addition to the artwork, there was an immersive music experience. Each picture was accompanied by music as well as an oral description, which you could listen to as you went round on the headphones provided by the museum. There was 9 EUR charge for a full price adult.

The Carmen Thyssen Museum Andorra is located on the ground floor of the former Hotel Valira, a historic listed building that is one of the best examples of granite architecture in Andorra. When I visited in May 2024, there were building works around it and it took a while to find the entrance! I have previously mentioned that Andorra La Vella is ‘noisy’ due to the sound of fast running water. The other sound which is everywhere throughout the city, is the sound of construction and building works.

Saint Peter the Martyr de les Escaldes

The Church of Sant Pere Màrtir dates from 1956. It’s a pretty church with a neo-romanesque style and a bell tower.. It’s made in granite, which is In keeping with other buildings in Andorra La Vella. It was definitely worth a look inside.

Caldea Spa

There’s a hugely popular spa on the edge of Andorra la Vella with a large swimming pool complex fed from thermal spring water and extensive treatment rooms. Timed passes can be booked on the Caldea Website.

Places and Activities for my next visit!

I wished I had spent a few more days in Andorra, as I’m not a shopper, I thought I might find it quite boring, but no. These are the things which are on the list for next time.

Rec del Sola Walking Route in Andorra la Vella

I started this route and I was rained on, so abandoned it, but, it is a relatively easy and short route starting fairly close to the centre. It takes you above the city to view points for the city and Pyrenees. Find more details here Hiking route: Rec del Solà (visitandorra.com)

Canillo and Surrounding Area

Tibetan Bridge

Buses from Canillo take you to the Tibetan bridge which is a metre wide bridge suspended high above the pyranees. For information about how to get there and walk the bridge please check here

Mirador Roc del Quer Viewpoint

This is also out on the road from Canillo. It is a high viewing platform suspended out of the hillside making you feel like you are suspended in mid air and although it is a relatively new attraction, it is already becoming very popular. It’s open to all and an unbeatable spot to take in the grandeur of the Pyrennees. More details can be found here

If Adrenalin and heights are your thing then a trip to Canillo looks like a great idea. I’m sorry I didn’t make it! Full details here.

These pictures are not my own and taken from the Tibetan Bridge and Roc del Quer website.

Basilica Sanctuary of Meritxell

This is the most important religious temple in Andorra and there’s a festival every year held there on 8th September., It’s to celebrate the feast day of the ‘marededéus trobades’. Full details found here, it looks well worth a visit.

Andorra Museums

..I visited just Carmen Thysson Art Gallery in Escaldes-Engordany , but some of the other more interesting museums in the principality on my list for another time are:

• The Tobacco Museum
• The National Automobile Museum
• The Perfume Museum
• The House Museum of Areny Plandolit
• The Museum of Miniatures Nicolai Siadristy
• The Ethnographic Museum Casa Cristo
• The World Champions Museum by 99

Cheese Factory: Formatgeria Casa Raubert

On the road out of Andorra La Vella, there is a cheese making factory and shop where you can see the production from raw milk, taste and shop for cheese. Located here.

Grandvalira Ski Resorts Andorra

Three large ski resorts in Andorra have combined forces to become Grandvalira Resorts, the largest ski resort in the Pyrenees. With more than 300 km of slopes, it’s one of the largest and most complete in Europe. They are open all year with summer activities as well as skiing and winter sports in the winter. Andorra is known for being good value for skiing and is considerably cheaper than Switzerland. Everybody living in Andorra learns how to ski from an early age.

Hiking is recommended in the summer. There are also bike trails and you can hire bikes rather than bringing your own.

Hiking Route: Llac d’Engolasters

This is a glacial lake not far from Andorra la Vella. There is a relatively short hike to get to it, the full walking route is here.

Food and Drink

My food and drink experience

I arrived over a bank holiday and many of the traditional Andorran restaurants were closed, although there was far more open than I expected. After spending my time in the evening wandering around the old town, I opted for Mama Maria which was opposite my hotel. Lured in by various animals including a teddy on skis covered in flowers and because it had people in it!

I was hoping for Andorran dishes, but the focus was on international fare including burgers and pizza. I opted for a Catalan dish, Botifaarra amb Mongetes, which translates to catalan sausage with white beans. The sausage was excellent, but it got a ‘bit much’ after a while and I failed to finish! I picked one of the cheaper items on the menu and a pint of beer and a coffee which came in at 24EUR. If I had found a more traditional restaurant, I think I may have ended up paying quite a bit more. So in summary, restaurants are not ‘budget’, but probably on a par with many Northern European countries.

Those who know me, know I like craft beer and real ale. Andorra is a bit of a dessert in terms of local beer. My pint of Leffe was excellent, if not local.

This was the only restaurant meal I ate in while in Andorra. There was general cafe fare which was considerably cheaper..

Check here for full restaurant options in Andorra La Vella.

Traditional Andorran Dishes

These are some of the things to look out for on Andorran menus.

• Escudella – Stew made from white beans and meat with further ingredients which could include cabbage, potatoes, rice, noodles and chickpeas.
• Trinxat – Chopped cabbage and mashed potatoes flavoured with ingredients including mushrooms, garlic and bacon.
• Embotits, – Andorran sausage,
• Truites de carreroles Mushroom omelette.
• cargols a la llauna – Slow roasted snails
• Crema catalana – A baked custard pudding, not dissimilar to Creme Brulee
• Torrijas – Slices of bread in milk or wine with honey and spices. This is dipped in eggs and pan-fried.
• Trucha a la Andorrana – grilled trout
• Cheese – Andorra is known for its local high quality cheese, made from milk from sheep and goats who live up in the mountains

Practicalities

Getting There

There are no planes or trains going into Andorra. Visitors arrive by road either from France or Spain. I approached from the French side, having previously caught Flixbus from UK, via London and Paris. This overland adventure will be the subject of a separate blog along with my stops in Toulouse and side trip to Carcassonne. I would love you to subscribe and then you will hear about this adventure as soon as I post it.

Provided below are the details of buses if, like me, you don’t wish to hire a car or drive yourself in Andorra. I’ll say right now, the driving in Andorra is fast and a bit crazy, Something to think about if you are not used to driving on mountain roads.

From France

I took Andbus service from Toulouse.Gare Matabiau- Toulouse (Bus Station Platform nº15). The bus also picks up from Toulouse Airport. The service runs during the day every 4 hours.. Check the Andbus website for times and to book tickets online and stops along the way including other towns in Andorra such as Canillo.

Tickets can be purchased from the ticket office at the bus station, but I was happier booking in advance online, so I knew I had a reserved seat. The service took 4 hours on a small coach/large minibus. The coaches were very new, clean and comfortable. The service was punctual and well organised.

From Spain

Andbus also operate from Spain. These were larger coaches as I think more people come from the Spanish side as it is a popular day trip from Barcelona. Coaches depart from Lieda as well as Barcelona. Check the Andbys website for full details and to book online. The Spanish bus company Alsa also operate services to Andorra.

The final destination for the buses from Andorra is the Estació Nacional d’Autobusos del Principat d’Andorra, although there were a number of request stops and booked pick ups from different places in Andorra including Canillo.

Border Controls and Schengen

Andorra is not in the EU or in the group of countries included within the Schengen area and there are border control points when you enter Andorra from France or Spain by road. The bus I was on was waived through and not stopped at the border. This was true for both the journey in and out of Andorra. This means I have no stamps in my UK passport to say I left and re-entered the Schengen area. As a non EU passport holder, who can only stay in the Schengen area for 90 out of the previous 180 days, I now have no immigration record of the days I spent outside Schengen..

If I were close to the limit on Schengen days, I would probably have avoided Andorra as I would prefer to keep clear of issues which could arise in the following 180 days because my immigration record is incomplete. I do have bus trips booked online so I have evidence I planned to cross for border, if any questions were asked, but questions at borders take time and can result in missed connections, so I prefer to keep things simple. I think if I crossed by car, I would be tempted to ask for the passport to be stamped, in and out,

If you are wondering if Andorra is a good country to ‘sit out’ your non Schengen days before returning to Schengen if you would otherwise exceed your 90/180 days, I personally would pick somewhere else other than Andorra. There are plenty of other non-Schengen countries with international airports that are not landlocked by Schengen countries and where you will get passport stamps or EES validation (operational from late 2024). Also, while I loved my time in Andorra, it is a small country and if winter skiing and summer hiking are not something you want to spend your time doing, you may find there is not enough to entertain for a longer period,. You cannot work while you are in Andorra without being a resident. Andorra does not issue visas.

When to Go

The ski season typically runs from December to April. Tourists visit Andorra all year. Andorra is high up in the Pyrenees and is cooler than neighbouring southern France and Spain in the summer. For this reason, It makes a great summer destination if you are trying to escape souring temperatures, typical in the rest of southern and central Europe

Language

Catalan is the official language, although French and Spanish are widely spoken. Many people speak English. It’s not uncommon for the Andorran people to switch languages frequently in conversation.

Money

Andorra is not in the EU, but it does have a special agreement with the European Union to use the Euro. Card payments are also widely accepted.

Internet calls and data roaming

You may need to buy a SIM card or E-sim if you wish to use your phone in Andorra and not run up large roaming fees. I have coverage for the EU on my mobile phone contract which did not extend to Andorra. I purchased data from Airalo. on an Esim to ensure I had data. Wifi was fairly widely available in restaurants and public places, but I wouldn’t rely on it.

Accommodation

The standard of Accommodation in Andorra tends to be high and I did not find it as expensive as in France or in Barcelona, the other city I could access Andorra from. I booked Hotel L’Izard. A double room for 48EUR per night. There was an optional charge for breakfast, but I paid room only.

The hotel was very good, I’d stay there again. If you want a room with a view, I’d definitely recommend requesting this when you book, as I had a view of 3 walls and various downpipes. That said, I did pay considerably less than the advertised price. The hotel was in a great location, not too far from anything.

Getting Around

Andorra La Vella is very walkable. There are local buses in Andorra, check here for full details. For complete freedom and to get to some of the more remote places, having use of a car would be beneficial. Many people arrive by car or hire a car in Andorra.