Nantes Place Royale - modern coloured sculptures added to the fountain

Things to Do in Nantes: A Complete Guide with Map and Itineraries

Nantes surprised me. I’d come for the mechanical elephant and left having walked a green line across a city that turned out to be genuinely, quite extraordinary.

Nantes is the sixth-largest city in France and the historic capital of Brittany. It’s the birthplace of Jules Verne, so it’s a fitting place for a carousel of weird and wonderful sea creatures.

A green line painted on the pavement connects 30 of the city’s highlights in a loose 12km loop. Over 2 days, I walked most of it, but there was still more left to see. If you’re ready to dip into the delights of this city, this guide to the things to do in Nantes is for you. I’ve added a map to guide you as well.


Is Nantes worth visiting

Nantes is everything I expect a perfect French city to be. Characterful, with elegant streets and squares, and brimming with independent shops and beautiful arcades. Plus plenty of gastronomic delights, served in anything from simple cafes and stalls to more glamorous dining venues. As the gateway to the Loire wine region, excellent wine is a given, especially the local Muscadet.

There’s plenty of history too, with huge gothic churches and a striking walled and turreted château, complete with a moat. Art is everywhere, from the modern art installations dotted around the city (check the green line) through to a striking art museum, where the building itself is a masterpiece.

And then we move on to the extraordinary. The aptly named Jardin Extraordinaire is hidden in a former quarry, with cliffs, huge waterfalls, and sub-tropical planting. It feels like you’ve stepped into Hawaii. Then onto the island in the middle of the Loire, where you’ll find a twelve-metre mechanical elephant pacing around, ears flapping and spraying water at anyone in its path. There’s a gallery dedicated to more mechanical marvels as well. This place is fun, no matter how old you are. Built by the same team behind mighty minotaur, Astrion, and the Halle de la Machine in Toulouse, these fantastical creations were the highlight of my trip.


Map of Things to do in Nantes

Here’s a map of things to do in Nantes. As Nantes is quite a big city, it’s worth paying attention to the order of things. I’ve divided things up into four parts, each taking about half a day.


The Green Line – Nantes’ Built-In Walking Tour

A painted green line on the pavement connects 30 of the city’s key sites in a logical walking route. It’s such a good idea.

The line runs for around 12km in total, from the Jardin des Plantes and Musée d’arts in the East, winding through the city centre, down to the Loire quayside, past the poignant Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery, across to the Île de Nantes, and west through the less touristy neighbourhoods of the city to the Little Atlantique Brewery, which felt like a perfectly reasonable endpoint.

green line man in Nantes - Jardin des Plants - things to do in Nantes
The green line in Jardin des Plantes

The Nantes City Pass

Nantes has more good ideas to make things easy for visitors. Download the app Pass Nantes to find some of the main paid attractions in the city. Purchase a Nantes City Pass, and you can get free or discounted entry to many of the city’s attractions, plus money off in shops and the odd free drink too. And as a bonus, free public transport, but bear in mind, public transport is free in the city on weekends anyway. The Nantes pass also includes the navbus (water-bus), the airport shuttle, and the tourist road train.

If you want to know more, and whether it’s worth your while to get a pass, I bought one and did the calculation, so you don’t have to.

➡️ Full article here: Is the Nantes City Pass Worth It? An Honest Review


Centre Ville: Graslin and Bouffay quarters

We will start in the heart of the city, close to many of the city centre hotels and attractions.

1 Explore the grand squares of Nantes, starting in Place Royale

Place Royale is one of Nantes’ most elegant squares and a fitting place to start. Dominated by a 19th-century fountain representing the Loire and her tributaries. When I visited, it was adorned with sculptures so life-like that I thought the people were real to begin with. It turns out, the Dutch artist Willem de Haan decided that 14 hyperrealistic figures of contemporary people from Nantes should replace the 19th-century statues. I’m all for it, not just because it looked great, but it made getting your bearings easier when one grand square starts to blend into another. There’s no confusing this one!

For more grand squares, I’ve added two more on the map. Both are worth seeing and will provide opportunities to shop and stop for a coffee or more.

  • Place Graslin: dominated by the classically styled Théâtre Graslin (Graslin Theatre) and home of one of our next stops, La Cigale.
  • Place du Bouffay: In the heart of the medieval quarter. Complete with 15th-century timber-framed houses and 16th–17th-century stone buildings.
close up of fountain Place Royal Nantes - modern cultured people sculptures added

2 Visit Basilique Saint-Nicolas de Nantes

Walk about 2 minutes from Place Royale, north-east on Rue Commandant Boulay. It will take you to a tall, striking neo-Gothic church. Often overshadowed by the cathedral, it’s also dramatic inside, with a soaring vaulted ceiling and vivid stained glass flooding the nave with coloured light. I’d suggest a look inside.

3 Shop in Nantes, boutique and independent stores, and find Passage Pommeraye

I’m not a shopper, but even I enjoyed wandering the central streets of Nantes. There’s little in the way of loud brand names ‘shouting’ at you, something that pleases me. It’s much more about individual, beautifully displayed and curated shops.

Look out for Passage Pommeraye, one of France’s most beautiful 19th-century shopping arcades, spread across three levels and connected by an ornate staircase with sculpted figures. It appeared in the 1961 film Lola, and it feels like a film set even today.

There are plenty more shopping options, too. Check out Rue Crébillon for high-end clothing and luxury brands, and Rue de la Marne for smaller independent shops. This street leads into the older medieval Bouffay district, which has plenty more shops, cafes, and restaurants as well.

4 Eat at La Cigale

I stopped here for the set meal for lunch (I booked ahead) and treated myself. It’s a magnificent Art Nouveau brasserie dating from 1895, all ceramic tiles, gilded mirrors, and painted ceilings. It’s one of the more touristy things to do in Nantes, but the crowd inside was mixed; there were plenty of locals as well as visitors. Fish and seafood are a specialty here, so that’s what I had. It was around €26 for the two courses, not including drinks, and it was delicious. If you don’t want to eat, I’d see if you can pop inside anyway, to take a look or linger over a coffee.

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Visiting Château des Ducs and beyond

After shopping and exploring in the central Place Royale, Graslin, and Bouffay districts, it was time to move a little further east to the Château des Ducs de Bretagne. Walk along the Rue du Château to reach it.

5 Explore Château des Ducs de Bretagne

A major visitor attraction in Nantes. It’s the fortress where Anne of Brittany was born and where Louis XII signed the Edict of Nantes in 1598. The museum inside traces Nantes’ history, including its role in the slave trade, and with admirable honesty.

It’s free to wander in and around the Château, including along the ramparts. Entrance to the museum is not free, but it is included with the Nantes City Pass.

Château des ducs de Bretagne - outside the walls
Château des Ducs de Bretagne

6 Visit Cathédral Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul

Extraordinarily light inside for a Gothic cathedral, with a long history, beset with problems. The first stone was laid in 1434, and it took around 450 years to complete in 1893. The cathedral suffered a devastating fire in 1972, and it was effectively rebuilt. Another fire in July 2020 kept it closed for over 5 years while it was restored. Cathédrale Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul has recently opened again, although repair work is still ongoing.

The cathedral is even taller than Basilique Saint-Nicolas de Nantes; in fact, at 37.5 meters, it’s even taller than Notre-Dame in Paris. So you’ll definitely want to take a look inside, if it’s open. Look out for the tomb of François II, Duke of Brittany – a Renaissance masterpiece.

If you walk around the cathedral, you’ll spot Saint-Pierre gate (pictured). It’s the best-preserved gate from the original walled city.

7 Be entertained at Le Lieu Unique

A national contemporary arts centre housed in the former LU biscuit factory, the distinctive tower of which is one of Nantes’ most recognisable landmarks. Exhibitions, performances, a bar, and a hammam all coexist in the same industrial space.

I’ll be honest, I walked here with high hopes, but it was effectively closed when I got there. I’d learn from my mistake, check the program and go when there is an event on and when it’s definitely open with something to see!

Le Lieu Unique in Nantes - quirky tower - former biscuit factory

8 Check out Musée d’arts de Nantes

The Musée d’arts de Nantes is one of the finest regional art museums in France, beautifully renovated with a striking modern wing added in 2017. The collection spans five centuries, and the building itself is worth the visit. Look at the entrance stairs inside (pictured!

Inside Entrance stairway in Musee d'art Nantes

9 Wander through Jardin des Plantes

Close to the Musée d’arts de Nantes. Jardin des Plantes (Botanic Gardens) is a large and genuinely lovely 19th-century garden that many visitors skip. The greenhouses are particularly good, and it’s a peaceful escape from the city centre crowds on a warm day. Look out for interesting sculptures and art in amongst the plants, both traditional and modern.

Jardin des Plantes Nantes - Greenhouse

Meet the machines at Ile de Nantes

So I’m not too old or too ashamed to admit, this is why I chose to visit Nantes! After a trip to the Halle de la Machine in Toulouse, I wanted to meet the rest of the mechanical steampunk family. There’s a lot to talk about, so I have a dedicated article for it, but I’ll include a few key details and some photos here.

➡️Full post here: Les Machines de l’Île Nantes: Elephant, Carousel and the Steampunk Gallery

10 Ride Le Grand Éléphant

The star of Les Machines de l’Île is a twelve-metre-high mechanical elephant that carries up to 49 passengers on its back as it walks and sprays water at unsuspecting bystanders. Even if you’ve read about it, nothing quite prepares you for seeing it move.

Book ahead – it sells out, and be aware the elephant ride is NOT included in the Nantes pass.

nantes elephant inside the gallery spraying water
Le Grand Elephant

The workshop and gallery are where you can see the machines up close, understand how they’re built, and what’s coming next. The current ongoing project is to create a vast mechanical tree canopy for the island.

Your visit will include plenty of demonstrations and audience participation. It’s a tour you need to book in advance; it’s not self-directed.

La Galerie des Machines is included in the Nantes City pass (but still reserve ahead, even with the pass).

Outside in the Parc des Chantiers, you’ll find the mechanical carousel, which may look like a traditional fairground ride from the outside, but there are no pretty horses to ride here. It’s a three-storey mechanical carousel of extraordinary craftsmanship, with each creature hand-built and rideable, each level representing a different depth of the ocean – a real Jules Verne fantasy.

A ride is included with the Nantes City Pass, but you may still need to book ahead, especially at busy times.

13 Explore the Parc des Chantiers

The Parc des Chantiers is still free to wander, even if you don’t book tickets for the main events. The Carousel is here, and Le Grand Elephant steps out here, too, so you can see them and take in the atmosphere, even if you don’t buy tickets for them. There are a few places to eat dotted around, too.

14 Catch the navbus at Le Hangar à Bananes

From here, you can catch the Navbus (free with the Nantes Pass). These river shuttle buses will take you to Trentemoult, a traditional and colourful fishing village on the south side of Nantes, popular with both visitors and Nantes residents.

I travel all these routes with a single small backpack. My Pack Light guides cover everything I bring – bag, clothes, tech, toiletries, and everything else, all weighed to the last gram.


Riverbank and West of Centre Ville

Here we will cover the stretch from the Pont Anne de Bretagne (crossing point to Ile de Nantes) along the riverbank to Little AtlantIc Brewery.

15 Remember at the Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery

The Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery is located near the Pont Anne de Bretagne, the crossing point for the Ile de Nantes, and it stands in stark contrast to the fun with the mechanical creatures. It’s one of the most thought-provoking memorials in France, running along the Loire quayside. Nantes was France’s largest slave-trading port, and this underground memorial, opened in 2012, confronts that history directly and unflinchingly. Don’t skip it. It’s free of charge.

16 Discover French Naval History on the Destroyer Maillé-Brézé

The Destroyer, Maillé-Brézé, is a Cold War-era destroyer moored on the Loire that you can explore independently, including the torpedo tubes and engine room. Completely unexpected in a city itinerary and worth an hour, especially for the views back across the river.

Entrance is included in the Nantes Pass.

Musée Naval Maillé Brézé - naval museum on a floating warship close up taken while riding Le Grand Elephant
Musée Naval Maillé Brézé (Warship now Naval Museum)

17 Take the river bus to Trentemoult from Gare Maritime

Trentemoult is a former village on the south side of the Loire. It’s a step back in time, with a colourful waterfront and several restaurants and cafes. It’s a popular place for residents of Nantes to come on weekends and during the holidays.

La Civelle on the waterfront is highly recommended both for the food and the riverside views.

The Navbus (water ferry) runs regularly from the Gare Maritime, which is located between the Maillé-Brézé and the Jules Verne Museum. The Navbus will also take you from Trentemoult to Le Hangar à Bananes on the Ile de Nantes.

18 Jules Verne Museum

Nantes’ most famous son, Jules Verne, gets a pleasingly eccentric museum in the 19th-century house, where he once lived. It’s full of original manuscripts, mechanical curiosities, globes, and maps. The Jules Verne Museum is a small traditional museum and very different from the more hands-on experiences on the Ile de Nantes.

It’s included in the Nantes City Pass,

19 Discover Le Jardin Extraordinaire

I found a hidden garden tumbling down into a former quarry, with exotic plants, waterfalls, and sculptures, including some masquerading as plants. It felt a bit otherworldly.

Oh, and check out those stairs! (see picture). If you’re unfit or have even mild vertigo, they will be a flat no! If you approach it from the riverside, as I did, you will arrive at the bottom of them. And as long as you leave the way you came in, you won’t need to climb them, unless of course, you want aerial shots,

Le Jardin Extraordinaire is free to enter, but it may be seasonal, so it’s worth checking dates.

20 Relax at Atlantic Brewery

And why not! The brewery, a former oil-pressing factory, is part of the renovation program for this historic part of Nantes. It’s also doing interesting things with Breton and Loire ingredients. The results? Excellent craft beer.

Not so many tourists make it here, but it’s worth it. There’s excellent food too, and live music when I visited. Depending on the time of the year, a small glass of something may be included with the Nantes pass.

Atlantique Brewery Nantes

There’s a stop for the Navbus at the brewery, so you can hop on that to take you back towards the centre, to save walking, or catching a bus.

Navbus stop at Little Atlantique Brewery

Where to stay

I stayed centrally in Nantes in the Ibis Styles Nantes Centre Place Graslin. A super friendly hotel, well-located, with a good breakfast included. Here are some more options with live bookings. There are very few options on the island itself, but plenty north of the river in the city centre.


How Long Should I Stay In Nantes

Can you “do” Nantes in a day? Well, that depends on your priorities. If you want to focus on the machines on the island and skip some of the city centre sights, or skip the machines, then yes, it’s possible.

Two days will give you a much better overview. I’d recommend longer than that if you want to take day trips or tours and spend more time in the museums, shopping, or dining.

One day in Nantes

I’d spend the morning exploring Centre Ville Graslin and Bouffay quarters, then head to Château des Ducs de Bretagne for a quick peek and a photostop, skipping the museum. You could squeeze in La Cigale for coffee, lunch, or, if you are staying later, dinner. Then cross the bridge to L’Île de Nantes for the Machines. Make sure you have booked slots well in advance for the elephant ride, La Galerie des Machines, and the carousel.

Two days in Nantes

Here’s a suggested itinerary for two full days in Nantes, which you can adjust as you please.

Warning: Check timings for L’Île de Nantes activities: morning opening is not available all year. If you are not visiting when it’s open in the morning, you may need to reverse Day 2 activities or visit L’Île de Nantes in the afternoon of Day 1.

Three days or more in Nantes

I would follow the same itinerary for two days, but add a tour, such as a winery visit. I’ve added some more options below.

Alternatively, you may wish to explore more of the centre and complete anything you didn’t see along the green line. A visit to Nantes historic and excellent food market. Talensac is also highly recommended. It’s an institution in Nantes and is especially popular with tourists from the US. There are also plenty more museums to visit, and you could check the Graslin Theatre schedule for a memorable night at the theatre.


Where to next

I hope you’ve found this guide useful, and do read it alongside my article on the steampunk machines on the island and my review of the Nantes pass to see whether it provides value for money.

Nantes is a train or bus ride (including an overnight option) to Toulouse if you would like to see more from the same family of machines on the same trip. I am adding more practical information and articles from France as well.

I do have a regular newsletter, if you would like to receive articles straight to your inbox.

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