Skopje, Capital of kitsch, is a modern city, with a rich heritage. A contradiction, for sure, but this city was flattened by an earthquake, rebuilt in ’60s’ style concrete, then remodelled to look like a traditional European city. The ‘City of Statues’ is wacky, so take your time to wander around the ancient bazaar, enjoy Macedonian cuisine and hospitality and enjoy the crazy architecture. Don’t miss a ride up Mount Vodno, to see the stunning views, standing next to the Millennium Cross, a gigantic structure which is twice the height of Rio de Janeiro’s Christ the Redeemer!
Skopje is the capital of North Macedonia, which was previously known as the former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia (FYR Macedonia) , It is one of the least visited capitals in Europe and one of the most budget friendly. I’d spend at least two days in Skopje and then choose some side trips in the wider Balkan area, to make a longer holiday. I’ll be covering the additional things you can do in separate posts. I’ve really enjoyed visiting the area and I hope this guide encourages you to visit too.
Skopje Key Sites Map
Macedonia Square and Warrior on a Horse Statue
You can’t miss the main Macedonia Square, with a massive statue on top of a large fountain. This picture shows the approach from Stone Bridge, with Mount Vodno in the background. Surrounding the square is a large shopping centre, plus bars and restaurants. The square is used for events, while also being a meeting place for residents and visitors alike. It’s a great place to linger and soak up the atmosphere.
Skopje Woman Warrior Park and more statues
Following the financial crash in 2008, the government decided to remodel the city, Consequently, The Skopje 2014 campaign was formed, which included the erection of approximately 4,000 statues in Skopje, as well as changing the facades of many of the buildings. Just a very tiny selection are in the Woman Warrior Park shown here. You will see many more as you wander around the city.
Woman Warrior Park is right in the centre of Skopje next to Macedonia square. Fair to say, it was short of woman warriors! Although, you could count the lady with wings above four horses. A male statue of Prometheus has been stuck in front of it. Statues of Prometheus are often naked, but the residents of Skopje insisted this one had his pants on! Good job too!
Skopje Archaeological Museum and Bridge of Civilisation
One of the largest and most imposing buildings in Skopje is the Archaeological Museum. It’s packed full of artefacts from Macedonian history. Entrance is around £2 for visitors.
The museum can be approached via the Bridge of Civilisation, which is a most remarkable bridge lined by statues on both sides. Meanwhile, on the other side of the Vardar river, close to the bridge are several fake galleons. One is shown here.
Skopje Old Bazaar
The Old Bazaar is a bustling marketplace and a fixture in the city since Ottoman times. It has been one of the most important trading posts on the Balkan peninsula.
The Bazaar is located right in the heart of Skopje‘s city centre. Definitely worth taking your time to stroll around. Check out the trendy cafes and modern boutiques, intermingled with specialist shops and market trading areas. It is a place enjoyed by locals and visitors alike.
Skopje Stone Bridge
The stone bridge, connects the modern and Ottoman parts of the city and spans the river Vardar, the largest in Macedonia. It is built on Roman foundations and has been reconstructed several times, but it kept the original architectural style and is not dissimilar to Prague’s Charles Bridge. You will almost certainly walk over this bridge as you wander the city centre.
Memorial House of Mother Teresa
Skopje is the birth place of Mother Teresa. Accordingly, A memorial house has been built on the site of the church in which she was baptised. It opened in 2009 and is dedicated to the life and work of Mother Teresa. You will find collections of photographs, personal items, and memorabilia related to Mother Teresa’s life and people she has met. Additionally, there is a reconstruction of her childhood home. The impressive chapel is located at the top of the building.
Do take the time to go inside and take a look. It’s open every day and free to enter.
Cathedral of St Clement of Ohrid
In North Macedonia, nearly half the population are Eastern Orthodox and the Orthodox cathedral is one of the many striking buildings in Skopje. It took nearly 20 years to build and was consecrated in 1990 on the 115th anniversary of St Clemet of Ohrid.
t’s a modernist domed cathedral with four domed roofs at each corner. While the outside is impressive, the inside feels more traditional. and is spectacular. The interior is filled with iconostasis and frescoes and is truly astonishing.
Museum of the City of Skopje
There is free entry to the Museum City of Skopje, exhibition halls containing a mixture of modern art and historical displays. However, the part I found fascinating, was the illustrative section and films of the time immediately before, during and after a massive earthquake in 1963. Prior to the earthquake, Skopje was a vibrant city, popular with tourists and the third largest city of the former Yugoslavia. The earthquake destroyed about 80 percent of the city, consequently leaving more than 200,000 homeless and around 4,000 dead. We took in films, exhibits and information boards describing the international effort to rebuild the city. The extensive rebuild in the 6o’s explains the brutalist concrete structures you will see throughout the city, although some of them have been covered up as part of the Skopje Project 2014 remodelling.
Skopje Fortress
The Byzantine fortress, with some Otterman features, is an easy walk up and onto the ramparts. It’s alongside the Old Bazaar. Additionally, the Museum of the Republic of Macedonia is located in the walls of Skopje fortress, so something to check out, if you are interested.
You will have an excellent view of the city from the ramparts, if the weather is good.
Skopje Concert Hall, North Macedonia Philharmonia
I like to find a live performance, when somewhere new, Consequently, we thought £5.50 to see a national orchestra playing in the capital’s main concert hall, was worth doing. The concert hall is impressive on the outside and does not disappoint, on the inside. We were treated to a concert of Aaron Copland’s work interspersed with some Gershwin. We were relieved it wasn’t a ‘dress up’ event, as we weren’t dressed up!
Skopje City Park
City Park is a popular part of Skopje, being the largest park in North Macedonia and the lungs of the city. it includes a main park area, the national football stadium and zoo. Additionally, you will find shops, restaurants and bars plus outside events taking place throughout the year.
The Gardens
We found the park fairly quiet, although it can get busy, particularly when it is sunny. Lakes and landscaped areas make it a very pleasant place to wander..
Skopje Football Stadium – National Arena Philip II of Macedonia
We checked out the football stadium area on the edge of the City Park, finding lots of shops and bars on the complex, in addition to the stadium. A major renovation is underway and we saw the finishing touches being added to a very large ‘English Pub’.. Maybe getting ready for the Euro 2024 qualifier against England, happening later in the year?k, fi
Skopje Zoo and Dino Park
As we walked further, we heard some roaring noises and went to investigate. A plastic giraffe marked the entrance to Skopje zoo. We paid the zoo entrance (around £3.50) and we went inside. It was a little dilapidated and we didn’t linger long, except to watch the penguins being fed. We continued on to find where the roaring was coming from and we found Dino park! Another 70p each, to pay for Dino Park and we went in.. Many of the main species of dinosaur were represented and they did indeed roar when we walked past them. I refer you to the video, including guest appearance at the end! We worked out the ticket lady was pressing buttons, to make the creatures move and do the sounds, This was not high tech!
Visiting Mount Vodno and the Millennium Cross
Mount Vodno provides the backdrop to Skopje, the Millennium Cross on top is indeed huge, being 66 metres high or about the height of a 20 floor skyscraper.. Take the hiking trail, or the cable car., your choice.
Getting to Mount Vodno
The most straightforward way is to book a tour using companies like Viator or GetYourGuide who may combine this trip with another activity, alternatively, you could drive or take a taxi. However, we opted to take public transport, being straightforward enough, once we worked out where to catch the bus from and how to pay for it!.
You can buy a ticket to Sredno Vodno in an old yellow bus and catch a red double-decker, both located under the main train station using google translate as English may not be spoken and with change at the ready! Buses run fairly regularly and terminate near the cable car. I’d plan to make the trip earlier in the day, rather than later if you are taking the bus, so you don’t miss the last bus in either direction.
Cable Car
The cable car worked out about £1.70 for a return ticket and it’s well worth spending some time at the top, to walk around the summit, take in the views and appreciate just how big the Millennium Cross is!
Food and Drink
We ate very well in Skopje, pizza, pasta, burgers we found everywhere, but we particularly enjoyed the traditional Macedonian dishes and local wine. Check out some popular dishes listed here.
- Tavce gravce – tomato bean dish, flavoured with paprika. Baked beans, basically, but so much better!
- Pastrmalija – a freshly baked flatbread can be topped with meat or egg and served with peppers
- Fish soup – North Macedonia is land locked, but has lakes, the largest is Lake Ohrid. Expect the soup to have fresh water fish in it.
- Makalo – a tangy dip to go with bread or anything else!
- Selsko meso – slow cooked stew containing pork, white wine and mushrooms
- Baklava – tasty pastry desert made with honey and nuts
As beer drinkers, we are always keen to find local beers and craft ale, I wouldn’t say Skopje was rich in options here, but we enjoyed the hunt!
Kuka
Kuka, my favourite, traditional Macedonian cooking served in an even more traditional setting, although we nearly didn’t go in as it looked closed and was down several back streets and not easy to find. Nevertheless, our perseverance paid off and we had a feast washed down with a jug of the local wine.
Kolektiv
Kolektiv is right in Macedonia Square, underneath a massive TV screen. Two good omlettes, 2 ‘Skopsko’ beers (the local lager) and a coffee for £10 with great service,
Old Town Brewery
Old Town Brewery is in the heart of the old Bazaar area, with trees growing inside and wood everywhere! We picked bread from the bar snacks menu and two craft ales using their app, the freshly baked bread was particularly tasty.
Kantina
Kantina is in Debar Maalo, an area best described as ‘boho hipster’ and near some of the university faculty buildings offers a modern, European menu with craft ale, cocktails, juices plus swing seats (not compulsory!).
Recommended Trips from Skopje
These are the side trips we took while we were in Skopje, blog posts still to come.
- Tetovo, an easy day trip from Skopje. A city in the North West of North Macedonia known for its painted mosque, a popular ski resort in winter
- Lake Ohrid, a popular Lake resort on the North Macedonian border with Albania, one of the earliest settled areas in Europe
- Pristina, capital of Kosovo
- Prizren, a picturesque town in Kosovo, known for its Ottoman architecture and hilltop fortress with outstanding views
Other things to do:
The items on the ‘long list’ we didn’t have time for.
Matka Canyon – Spectacular trail plus boat trip through the canyon – a day or half day trip on a public bus or via a tour. from Viator or Get your Guide
Various museums including:
Practicalities
Getting there
I booked ‘personal item only’ flights from London Luton to Skopje for £25 per person each way with WizzAir. (April 2023). However, if you prefer to travel overland, your best bet may be an international coaches into North Macedonia, as the trains from Thessaloniki and Belgrade are not running right now.
When to go
Average monthly temperatures range from -2C to 29C,, so avoid deepest winter or July and August if you are less keen on temperature extremes. As one of the less touristy capital cities, you should find reasonably priced accommodation available all year.
Language
Macedonian is the most widely spoken language with Albanian also common. Additionally, many people speak English, especially in hospitality, although I would keep a translation app like google translate close to hand.
Money
Currency in North Macedonia is the Macedonian Denar (MKD) and there are around 70 Macedonian Denar to £1 (GBP). Additionally, cash is far more widely used than cards, so you will need some local currency. We took some cash out from a cashpoint when we arrived, making sure we used it all before we left. Revolut is always useful to have, if you are paying by card, to avoid currency conversion and transaction fees.
Internet, Calls and Data Roaming
I purchased an Esim from Airalo for North Macedonia so I could use data for internet and avoid expensive roaming charges, although. Wifi was fairly widely available in the city.
Accommodation
There aren’t a huge numbers of hotels in Skopje, but there are plenty of apartments available on sites like Booking.. We stayed in a block which was a replica of the Flat Iron Building in New York for £45 a night in total for the whole apartment, in April 2023. There are a number of apartments available in this block, just search Skopje flatiron.
Getting around
Skopje is a very walkable city, with most of the main sights easily accessible on foot and there are also local red double decker bus routes too. There are also coaches and some trains for longer distances. I found BalkanViator a useful site for finding timetables as not everything was on google maps or apps like Rome2Rio which I would normally use.
Hope you found this guide useful. Do get in touch if you have questions.
Christine, Author of One Small Bag
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Blimey,this is a VERY comprehensive blog ! I shall have to leave it until tomorrow -I have a beef bourgignon & a bottle of red to attend to
One of those statues looks like the one in Jason of the Argonauts that comes to life !
Brilliant Christine. I hope to be there next month so this is super helpful.
Oh that’s wonderful. Have an amazing time! If you have time, it’s about on hour on the bus to Tetovo which is well worth a visit. Alternatively you can pop over the border on a bus to Pristina and Prizren in Kosovo. The blog posts for those aren’t ready yet, but get in touch if you want to share notes!
Be very afraid Retired Martin! 🙂
Late reply. Hope it was helpful and you enjoyed your trip!
It did! *Joking* 😂