First off, this place is jaw dropping. Put it on your bucket list! Meteora means ‘hanging monasteries’ and the monasteries certainly do look like they are suspended from the sky as they perch on the striking rock formations. It’s hard to imagine how the monasteries could have been built hundreds of years ago. Meteora is located in central mainland Greece and is accessible from both Athens and Thessaloniki by train to Kalambaka.
I first became aware of Meteora from pictures and articles in National Geographic. A photographer’s paradise, it is becoming an Instagram favourite. Meteora is the largest archaeological site, by area, in the whole of Greece. It’s also a Unesco World Heritage Site and an official holy place for Greece.
Hermit monks first came to Meteora in the 9th and 10th centuries looking for solitude. They lived in caves, supported by the local community. In the 14th Century, the hermit monks joined forces and built Great Meteoran, the first monastery in Meteora. By the 16th century there were believed to be 24 or more monasteries. Today, six monasteries are currently active with four inhabited by monks and two by nuns.
Visiting by Train from Thessaloniki or Athens
We visited Meteora by train on a daytrip from Thessaloniki, changing in Palaiofarsalos, then onward to Kalambaka. A similar trip from Athens was also possible. Sadly, a train crashed with many injured and a number of fatalities in February 2023. It was a few days after we visited. At the time of writing, the train line is not fully restored from Thessaloniki, with a coach replacement service for part of the journey. You can still take the train all the way from Athens.
I took some pictures of the high speed train running between Thessaloniki and Athens, which forms part of the journey to Kalambaka, The train was modern, comfortable and with a dining car and a proper coffee machine. Tickets displayed seat numbers, it was not crowded and was also on time.
We were greeted by a number of tour guides and tour buses at Kalambaka train station including Meteora Thrones who I had booked our day tour with.
From Kalambaka to the Monasteries
The tour bus took us from the station for the short drive into Meteora. While it might not look a tremendously long way on foot from Kalambaka station, when you look at a map, in practice it’s steep and winding. Visitors also need to leave energy for the climb to enter each of the monasteries and walk between and around them. For this reason, I would recommend transport of some sort from Kalambaka to the monasteries, unless this is a more leisurely trip over multiple days or you are super fit and up for a challenge.. For those who don’t want to take a tour bus, it’s possible to hire scooters and cars in Kalambaka. It’s worth noting, parking is limited at each of the monasteries.
For me, this is one of those occasions when a tour really works, to ensure you use your time and energy effectively, taking into account limited monastery opening hours.
Visiting the Monasteries
Once we arrived in Meteora, the tour took us to each of the monasteries and various viewpoints along the way. The guide provided a running commentary on the history of Meteora and interesting facts about the monasteries, monastic life and the area in general.
The monasteries are accessible via a number of steps and, in some cases, a steep walk as well. Surfaces may be uneven, The scenery may be spectacular, but a reasonable level of fitness is required, especially if you are visiting in the heat of summer. Sensible shoes, water and sun protection are essential.
There is a dress code to enter inside each monastery. Women are required to wear skirts. but these can be provided on entry. Men should not wear shorts or sleeveless tops. There is a small charge to enter. each monastery (around 3EUR per person) which is not included in tour prices. Not all the monasteries take cards or have lots of change, so it’s best to come prepared, with change. Monastery opening times vary. The tour will take this into account, but important to know if you are visiting independently.
We had time to go inside 4 out of the 6 monasteries. This may be enough for many, depending on fitness levels.
Monastery of Great Meteoron
Great Meteoron is the oldest and the largest. It was founded by monk Athanasios in the 16th Century. You can wander around the gardens and preserved ruins. The restored chapel has a magnificent display of gold, carvings and paintings. There is also a pulley transportation system which was fascinating to watch, but as a tourist, you can’t have a ride in it!
Monastery of Varlaam
Access to the monastery is from the main road. The visitor then climbs 195 steps carved in the rock. There is a museum in the old refectory with frescoes. The monastery of Varlaam is the second largest monastery of Meteora.
Monastery of Roussanou
Roussanou is located on a tall rock pillar and is accessible by stairs and a small footbridge crossing. Originating from the 14th century, it is dedicated to Saint Barbara. The Holy Monastery of Roussanou is currently a nunnery, with around 12 nuns thought to be living there.
Monastery of Agios Stefanos
The monastery of Agios Stefanos is the most accessible monastery. Visitors simply cross a small bridge to reach the entrance. Today, Agios Stefanos is a nunnery. and has beautiful gardens.
Monastery of Holy Trinity
Holy Trinity Monastery is the most difficult to access and is featured in the James Bond film ‘For Your Eyes Only’. Access is via a path taking you to the foot of the cliff and then a steep climb up 145 carved steps. There is a magnificent view from the balcony of the monastery looking out towards the other monasteries and the Meteora rocks.
Monastery of Agios Nikolaos Anapafsas
Here we have the monastery of Agios Nikolaos with the monastery of Roussanou in the foreground. The monastery of Agios Nikolaos is the first on the way to the Meteora monasteries and probably served as a resting place for pilgrims before continuing on to the other monasteries. ‘Resting’ translates into Greek as ‘anapafsis’. That may explain where the name came from.
At the end of the trip
At the end of the tour, the coach took us back to Kalambaka, leaving us with an hour before the train arrived. This was just the right amount of time to have a meal in the centre of town before we boarded the train for the journey back. It was busy in the town centre square with visitors taking in the views and eating and drinking in the various restaurants. The Meteora cliffs formed a spectacular backdrop to the town square.
We enjoyed our day immensely but a 4 hour train trip each way to reach Meteora, did make it a long day. I would personally recommend an overnight stay in Kalambaka, if you want to get those ‘insta’ perfect sunrise or sunset shots, or take your time, There is a range of accommodation on offer in Kalambaka.
Tour companies, including Meteora Thrones offer a range of day, half-day and multi-day experiences and specialist trips for photographers and hikers. The activities offered by the tour companies cater for people travelling independently as well as those arriving by train as we did.
Practicalities
What?
Our day tour, including the return train trip from Thessaloniki, cost 87EUR per person.. Tour companies, such as Meteora Thrones, offer a range of day, half-day and multi-day experiences and specialist trips for photographers and hikers. The tour experiences are designed for people travelling independently as well as those arriving by train as we did. For a full range of tips, check out Viator or GetYourGuide.
Where?
We didn’t stay in Kalambaka, but we dd book hotel rooms in Athens and Thessaloniki where prices are similar. I tend to use Booking.com and certainly with genius points it is possible to find well located hotel accommodation with very good ratings for a budget of £50 per night in February/low season. In the summer I would book well in advance and expect to pay considerably more.
When?
Meteora is an all year destination. We visited in February and we found the weather perfect for sight-seeing. Maybe, we were lucky not to get rain, but we appreciated the cooler temperatures and lack of crowds. While the central mountain area may be a little cooler than some other parts of Greece in the height of summer, personally I wouldn’t have wanted to do the trip in the scorching heat of July or August. Dissclaimer here: I am a pale, blonde who doesn’t do well in extreme heat!
Spring and Autumn are probably the perfect time for many to visit. My advice would be to visit sooner rather than later before everyone else discovers it!
How?
We arrived by plane from London Luton (UK). Our outbound trip to Thessaloniki and return via Athens cost £23 each way on WizzAir, It’s fair to say I did juggle with dates and airports to get this price and it was February!. This was the basic price (small personal item only) with no extras using an annual discount card I purchased for 20EUR. The pass earned its keep by the second trip in the year. WizzAir may be budget, but so far we have no complaints and we’ve flown with them several times now.
If I had more time, I would have travelled by train from UK to Athens, which is a trip I have made in the past., There are so many possible routes through the Balkan countries from Northern Europe. Maybe not cheaper, but for me, ultimately more rewarding and life affirming and better for the planet too. You can buy Interrail or Eurail tickets to cover this route. We have also caught comfortable, airconditioned coaches through much of the Balkans.
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